Caring for Vintage Lace

The crazy quilt bolster is coming along nicely, don't you think?  I've been sick with a summer cough and can't really do very much in the house or the studio, so I've had some time to sit and stitch a little.

I added beaded flowers to the vine that I made last week and then filled in with some crewel leaves.  I've left the bottom of the vine open because I'm not sure exactly what to do with it.  This way, I can made a decision without having to remove stitches.  

 While looking for these gray flowers, I discovered the ship's wheel.  It fits nicely in that piece of red, white and blue stripe, don't you agree?

 I added some ribbon work to this red piece of heavy fabric.  I was worried that it would be difficult to hand sew the ribbon into the fabric, but it's loosely woven velvet-like fabric, so it was really easy.  The textures created with the fabric and the ribbon are unbelievable.  

Storage 
Then I decided to add some vintage laces to the bolster.  These are laces that belonged to my mom and grandmother.  Some are quite old and most are pieces of lace salvaged from clothing now long gone.  Both Momma and Ma-ma were great stashers and saved bits and pieces for years.  There's no telling how old some of this lace is.  

Much of it has yellowed with age and most of it has been sitting in paper or plastic bags with a multitude of other things for years and years.  As I've discovered it, I've tried to organize it so that it's easier to find and also so that I can determine what to do with so much stuff.  For the most part, I've sorted and stored everything in glass jars that decorate the studio.  


Washing 
To be able to use it, I simply found a few pieces to start with and hand washed it in cold water using some Woolite fabric detergent.  A small plastic bucket does the trick: fill it to about half with cool water, add a little Woolite and gently swirl the laces around letting them soak for about ten minutes.  Give it a good rinse under cold running water, then gently squeeze the water out of the lace.  Lay the laces on a thick white towel and roll it up to press the water out.  

Keep in mind that vintage lace, like all old things, has a history.  If some of the history insists on staying with the lace, don't fight it.  Scrubbing may distort or damage the lace.  Discoloration, stains and "flaws" are the reason we love vintage. They are part of the story and should be accepted as such.  The reason for washing is not to remove the history, it's to remove the loose dirt and, sometimes, the musty smells that accompany things that have been stored, salvaged or forgotten. 

I hang the laces overnight to let them air dry, then press them with a pressing cloth and low temperatures.  Some of the laces are easily distinguishable--cotton and polyester were both very common in the 50's and 60's--but some of the laces I'm really not sure about.  I don't want to chance melting or burning them with a hot iron.


Right and wrong sides

See the loose thread right under the "k"?  When the lace is
turned over in the next photo, it's difficult to find.  

The loose thread is now under the "a" and is
barely visible when the lace is right side up.

Lace has a right side and a wrong side.  Sometimes it's difficult to tell the two apart, but if you look closely, you can see that on one side the thinnest threads or netting holding the motif together are knotted or twisted.  These threads run from motif to motif and always go to the back side of the motif, creating the wrong side of the lace.  The motif's right side is less blurred, has clean edges, and appears raised above these thin threads or netting.  


Removing thread
Because old lace is often salvaged from clothing, bits of thread and even fabric can be attached.  Gently pick at the thread to determine whether it's part of the lace or a thread left from former use.  If it's part of the lace, it's best to leave it alone and, if necessary, stitch it down when sewing the lace to it's new fabric.  

If it's thread that does not belong but is still stitched in, gently remove it by picking out with a seam ripper.  Be extra careful not to catch the lace accidentally.  There may be two threads if a sewing machine was used for the stitching: in that case, you will need to work from both sides of the lace to slowly pick out the threads.  

 If it's knotted or won't come out and you are fairly certain it is not part of the lace, snip the thread ends as short as possible and leave it in the lace rather than cause some damage.  Consider it a part of the story that can't be separated.


Hand-sewing
Although it can be sewn on a machine, I like to hand stitch vintage laces.  I can smooth, straighten and reshape the lace as necessary to get the details just right.  

Take tiny stitches following the very edge of the lace, sewing it down like one does with hand-sewn, needle turn applique.  Instead of taking time to turn the fabric edge, I take time to reshape the curves and dips in the lace.  Stitch both long edges of the lace but leave the center alone.  And, while the lace should be stitched closely to the fabric, it's important not to pull the thread so much that the lace is pinched, which can cause the lace to break and fall apart.  You will find that old lace will last much longer on new fabrics if it is not sewn on too tightly.  


Lastly, match your sewing thread to the color and type of lace that you are sewing.  Cotton thread with cotton laces, especially, to avoid extra stress on the thinner threads.  I find an off-white, such as cream or ecru, generally work well in matching colors, but for some laces that are especially yellowed, I would use a taupe.

Enjoy your vintage lace, where ever it comes from.  Remember that it needs a few little special touches if it's to last but the extra effort is well worth it when you use the lace to adorn clothing, accessories, bags, etc. 

Vintage Baby Quilt

Not so long ago a colleague brought a darling little baby quilt to me at the request of his mom.  During the summer we discussed the possibility of my repairing it for her.  After determining that her main  goal is to salvage it so that it can be used when her grandchildren visit, I suggested that we add a new backing and stipple the entire quilt on the long arm.  

I was concerned that doing so would devalue the vintage quilt, which her grandmother-in-law made many years ago.  She assured me that the important thing is that the grandchildren be able to nap under the quilt and that it last as long as possible.  She's a true believer that using quilts is a way of honoring the maker.

I agree with her, but I also like to preserve quilts for future generations and for study.  This cute quilt had been hand appliqued and hand quilted, so I wanted very much to allow the hand work to show despite the machine quilting.  

I chose to use Superior Threads' Bottom Line in light gray for both the bobbin thread and the top thread because it blends so beautifully with the off-white aged top and barely shows on the gingham appliques even though they are different pastel colors.

Unfortunately, some of the appliques are quite tattered.  I decided not to replace them because I want this to still be the grandmother's quilt and, especially, her handwork.  To compensate for these appliques, I  stippled all the appliques in a small stipple design after going around the outside edges.

The tattered appliques I treated exactly the same as those in good condition except that I was extra careful in working a tiny stipple design in the areas that are already torn and frayed.  My hope is that the extra stitches will hold the applique pieces in place for a few years longer than if they were just stitched down normally.


The only problem that this may have caused is that the quilt is a bit more stiff than I had hoped it would be, but once it's been washed a few times, it should be soft and cuddly again.

The appliques are stitched down in a blanket stitch with black embroidery thread.  Some of the details of the little animals are also embroidered with the black thread.  

Using a stipple stitch allowed me to ignore the details of the embroidery and just tack the layers together.  This leaves the embroidery floss to do its intended job and highlight the animals.

Now that the quilt is complete, I am satisfied that it will last for several more years.  The new backing and extra layer of batting helped to stabilize the top and applique.  But most importantly, the grandmother's work shines through and her entire quilt is still intact. 

The maker turned the backing to the front for her binding, which means it's only one layer of fabric and had small holes in a few spots.  To resolve this problem, I decided to use her method but instead of turning the new backing to the front of the quilt where it would show, I turned it to the middle tucked it behind the original binding.  

I stitched very close to the edge then stippled the binding on my Bernina using the BSR (stitch regulator).  This way I could add extra stitches where the holes are, the stippling matches throughout the quilt, and the binding still shows on the top of the quilt.  That the binding shows is extra important since the yellow fabric for the binding is also the fabric in the sashing.  

I don't have photos of the whole quilt because it won't be delivered till Monday and I don't want to show it until then.  But I think there are enough photos here for you to see how darling the little quilt is.  

I've decided not to put a label on this one.  It's not my quilt and while I had a part in helping the family to make sure it will be around for a while longer, I want my part to be forgotten.  Would you include a label or leave that to the family?  

Did you notice the mistake in the last photo?  Look at the whale.  It's making a flip, I guess, because it's upside down!  How wonderful is that?  To have a vintage quilt from their grandmother and for it to be so personal, handmade, and yes, signed in her hand.  Unfortunately, her signature had to be covered since it's on the back, but I will tell the owner where it is, in case she wants to include that info with the quilt.  

Goodbye Ruston

Since today was our last day in Ruston, I thought I'd give you a glimpse into how Richard spent his days while I was in my professional development workshop.  He had a good six or seven hours with nothing more than a hotel room and the car.  (Little cash since we'd agreed not to spend much.)  

The town is really very pretty.  Since it's a college town there are a few places for entertainment and learning.  It was first founded in 1883, so there are some beautiful old homes in the area.  We really enjoyed riding around and looking at those homes.  Richard spent part of one day doing just that and snapping photos to share with you.  Isn't he the best?  

I saw all of these houses, but I wasn't there for the photo session, so you get to see what he finds interesting and noteworthy.  I have to say, he did a fine job of photographing.  


In fact, I may have to relinquish the camera to him because these pictures are much, much better than the ones I generally take.


He hasn't told me why he chose these homes, so I assume that it's simply because he likes them or, as I would say, they speak to him.  
If you want to see and read more about Ruston, click here for the official website.  To know more about Louisiana Tech, the university in Ruston, click here.


As we were leaving town today, we had to stop at the one fabric shop I found, but this is just a teaser....I'll show you what I picked up tomorrow!

Before closing, I want to remind you to go here to enter my giveaway!  You'll find the rules and information you need to enter.  Good luck!

Now tell me what do you think about these homes. Wouldn't you love to visit this town in the Deep South?